Henry’s End Restaurant
44 Henry Street
Brooklyn Heights, NY 11201
718.834.1776
www.henrysend.com

I have found my death row meal; should I be on death row in Brooklyn; but isn’t the point of a death row meal to have anything you want from anywhere? But I digress. Henry’s End is located smack at the end of Henry Street in Brooklyn Heights just north of Cranberry Street, and mere steps from the BQE and the start of DUMBO. The closest subway stop is at Clark Street making this spot well off the popular strips of Atlantic Ave, Montague Street, or Smith Street. The area is a little bit quieter despite its proximity to the BQE…and then you step inside.

Inside Henry's End
Inside Henry’s End

You walk into a small, rustic dining room / wine storage area / open kitchen packed to the gills with diners who are deep in conversations and entrees. Last night there was a 45 minute wait, and the manager suggested we wait over at their new wine bar, Brooklyn Heights Wine Bar. A glass of California Zinfandel, a couple oysters, and a plate of olives later the manager came to fetch us – our table was ready.

Henry’s End has a permanent menu that is a meat-lover’s heaven loaded with various cuts of meat, veal, chicken, and duck plus a healthy selection of fish, a couple pasta options, shell fish, and salads. But what struck my fancy was the selection of seasonal wild game options. Thanks to a former roommate who was/is a master hunter I developed a taste for the game meats.

Choices include turtle soup, ostridge, and venison. I decided to start with the country pate, and for my entree the mixed grill including an elk chop, wild boar belly, and quail stuffed with garlic and spinach. My wife, who is not as adventurous of an eater as I am went with the artichoke soup and the steak au poive. We each ordered a glass of California Zinfandel – our theme wine of the evening.

Fresh Bread Basket
Fresh Bread Basket

We were brought a bread basket containing fresh baked french bread and what my wife called Easter Bread – made with dried fruit and fennel seeds, and sesame bread sticks, and a ramekin packed with ice cold butter. I prefer my butter to be whipped, and a bit softer, but managed to look past this. The Easter bread was enough to make me consider converting.

Country Pate
Country Pate

Then the appetizers came…I am a huge fan of pate – any kind, any time. This is a special pate – a mix of pork and duck livers, perhaps made with carrots and scallions (I think) and wrapped in bacon. It’s fatty and chunky, yet creamy, and is absolutely divine, served with cornichons and grape tomatoes, with mustard and a berry dipping sauce.

Artichoke Soup
Artichoke Soup

Also quite good was the wife’s artichoke soup. It was creamy and full of flavor. She suggested it would also be quite nice served cold. That got me thinking that gazpacho season is just around the corner…

The main event of the evening, however was my plate of mixed wild game. I’d tried wild boar and quail previously, but never elk, and I was not disappointed!
Mixed Wild Game Grill
Mixed Wild Game Grill

Elk is tender and lean, but flavorful enough to be a fattier land mammal like beef, and only slightly gamy in flavor. The quail could have been done with or without the spinach stuffing. It was cooked perfectly, and delicious. Like pork belly, the wild boar was thick and fatty, tender, smoky, and perfect.

I couldn’t resist trying the wife’s steak au poive which was also cooked perfectly, and seasoned generously with peppercorns, served in a heavy on the dijon au poive.
She couldn’t finish it all, but guess who could. It was my pleasure to assist.
Following the meal we were given the dessert menu. Even on days I don’t think I can eat another morsel of food, I always like to look at the dessert menu because I know me and I always find room for the right dessert.
Persian Lime Pie
Persian Lime Pie

This particular night the right dessert recommended by the waiter, and enthusiastically accepted by my wife was the Persian Lime Pie – similar to Key Lime, and equally as tart, sweet, tangy, and creamy. This is the pie of kings, perfect balance in sweet and tart served with fresh made whipped cream over a graham cracker crust.

For two – with two glasses of wine each, two entrees, two appetizers, and one shared dessert the bill came to about $130. This is not cheap by any means, nor is it overly expensive. It’s a special treat – out of the ordinary food; fresh, delicious, classic food.
A restaurant like Henry’s End doesn’t need the endorsement of Eating Brooklyn. They’ve been around for a while, and have a constant packed house. But for a guy who likes to eat and write about it, this was the perfect experience.
~Sam
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