Co.
230 9 Avenue (at 24th Street)
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1105‎
info@co-pane.com

I’m hard pressed to offer praise to New York City pizza places that try to be more than what they are, which is a New York Pizza place.  It further irritates me find out that such pizza places sell personal sized pizzas that start at $9 for a cheeseless pizza, $13 for your basic Margherita, and as high as $18 for Meatball or Fennel & Sausage.  Just down the street I can get this stuff for 1/3 the price at Famous Ray’s…or is it Original Ray’s?  Anyway sometimes I just have to bite the bullet and go where my friends want to go, kicking & screaming if necessary.

Upon arrival at this Chelsea establishment we were greated outside by a hostess holding a clipboard.  The front area of the restaurant was crowded with after-work types.  An empty row of communal tables lined the middle of the restaurant with plenty more off to the left.  She hesitated to seat us until our entire party was present.  And even when we wanted to add two more (about 20 minutes later after we were already sitting) to the two open spots at our communal table, they had to check yet another list.  Who were they trying to fool?

Dish of Olives

Their wine list is ample and reasonable.  They carry about five micro-brew beers that they sell for $7 per pint, or $25 for a pitcher.  Again, sometimes I just want a Budweiser but was happy to see they carried Abita, a beer that reminds me of a weekend I spent in New Orleans.  Other beers included Sly Fox (PA), Ommegang (NY), Captain Lawrence (NY), & Six Point (NY). 

We ordered a loaf of bread with olive oil for $4 (shouldn’t this be free?) and a plate of olives for $4 to start.  The bread was fine, and the olives mighty tasty.

 

Co's Suckling Pig Appetizer was Dry & Tasteless

A friend ordered their suckling pig special appetizer for a few of us to share.  Who am I to turn down suckling pig?  Don’t worry, Mr. Bourdain.  I didn’t turn it down, but I almost wish I did.  The skin was crunchy (not crispy; crunchy!), and the meat was dry and tasteless.  While this should have been slow roasted in its own juices, I feel it was heated to death in a conventional oven.  So far I was not impressed at all by Co.

Flambe

I was nearly ready to throw in the towel before the pizzas came.  The pies were bigger than expected, and looked quite good.  We had three different kinds down on my side of the table: Flambe with bechamel, parmesan, mozzarella, caramelized onions, & lardons, Fennel & Sausage with fennel, sausage, mozzarella, crushed tomato, parmesan, red onions, & chili, and Popeye with pecorino, gruyere, mozzarella, spinach, black pepper, & garlic.

Popeye

The pizza is less fancy, and more rustic than I expected.  The ingredients are fresh, the temperature hot, and the taste – extraordinary!

Each pie is cut into 8 small, yet hearty slices.  I had one Popeye, and two each of the other two.  They were that good!  And I was that hungry!

My favorite of the three was definitely the Fennel & Sausage – the pork-o-file that I am, but the other two were also quite good.

Fennel & Sausage

Co.  redeems itself through its pizza.  Will I return for another round?  Perhaps…kicking & screaming, but this time in praise of pizza!

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